Archive for November, 2008

Menu

Tuesday, November 11th, 2008

This is an introductory menu to New Orleans cooking that has worked pretty well for me here in New York; it touches on some of the more familiar dishes and presents them with a balanced and inspired sensibility that I think represents & translates well.

Oyster Platter

Baked oysters Bienville, baked oysters Rockefeller, and The Peace-maker: oysters slightly poached in flamed out Absinthe and a touch of cream, filled into a hollowed out individual brioche-like roll, toasted. Garnish the middle of the platter with chilled grilled onions tossed with grated fresh horseradish, lemon zest, parsley leaves, grated garlic.

Shrimp Remoulade

Boiled whole, large shrimp and some vegetables: mirliton, fingerling potatoes, celery pieces, corn, artichoke (see recipe). Chill and plate with the remoulade sauce (see recipe), a three minute egg, home-made salt crackers.

Red Beans & Rice

New Orleans red beans with home-made pickled pork and chaurice sausage. Top with a few croquettes made of rice and scallion calas. Serve home-made sauce Piquante on the side.

Court-Bouillon

With a rich Creole Court-Bouillon broth poach fish, home-made boudin, & home-made paprika papradelle. Into a deep bowl along with the poaching broth. Finish with crab butter and parsley-garlic pistou.

Chicken & Dirty Rice

Roulade discs of chicken (with garlic, thyme, & lemon), Louisiana dirty rice, collard/mustard green chiffonade tossed with lemon, e.v.o.o., cracked black pepper, salt. Make the sauce with the roasting pan used for the chicken. Debris sauce works very well.

Beignets & Coffee

Not the French-style variety (pate’choux) but the more substantial and flavorful New Orleans style, the dough made the night before and allowed to ferment and develop flavor. Served with a Pots de Creme custard infused with French Market coffee & chicory.

Pecan pralines to seal the deal.

La Mediatrice

Tuesday, November 4th, 2008

La Mediatrice, the story behind the name..
One of our favourite stories, truly revealing the power of food, is that of the oyster loaf. Dating back to the early 19th century in the Vieux Carre of New Orleans a popular tradition was born. After spending an evening carousing the saloons in the French Quarter and possibly heading for a confrontation with an anxiously waiting spouse one might sensibly stop off at an Oyster Saloon for a ‘peace maker’, in French La Mediatrice. This undeniable and delicious combination of fresh, seasoned & fried Louisiana oysters bedded in a buttered Louisiana baguette was, and in our opinion will forever be, enough to bring peace and in this case forgiveness into any home.
The magical persuasion of food.